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Thursday, December 12, 2024

Three summer openings: Dhakaah, The China – and Half Cut Market rebooted

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New Bangladeshi restaurant Dhakaah opens in Hawley Wharf

Dhakaah is the latest opening at the still-under-performing Hawley Wharf, the new part of Camden Market that, on our last evening visit, was a little ghostly (buzzy canalside taproom Three Locks is worth a visit, though).

A celebration of the street food and the specialities of Bangladesh, this newcomer is named after the country’s vibrant capital Dhaka, and the owners say it’s part of their “larger vision to bring Bangladeshi culture and its specific cuisine to the UK, highlighting the individuality and diversity of this often overlooked culture.”

The menu is split into bar snacks, small plates and bigger plates, from Fuchka (Bangladesh’s answer to Pani Puri filled with spiced potato, chickpea and spiced tamarind water) and Peyaju (deliciously crisp dhal fritters) to Shingara (shortcrust pastry filled with soft potato and spiced vegetables.)

Bigger plates include the Beef Kathi Roll, a heavily spiced mezbani beef curry, wrapped in handmade parota; and the signature Chicken Roast, a free range chicken leg, caramelised with onion, mixed nuts and cardamon forward masala spices. Free-range British produce complements elements sourced directly from Bangladesh, including Kalijeera rice, a small Bangladeshi variety with a distinct nutty aroma and delicate texture. Follow @dhakaah_restaurants

Three summer openings: Dhakaah, The China – and Half Cut Market rebooted
Aidan Richardson, HALF CUT MARKET: photographer Amy Ruse

New head chef and menu at Half Cut Market

We’re huge fans of Half Cut Market, the edge-of-Kentish Town (OK, York Way) restaurant whose small plates rival anywhere in London (read our original review here). Their natural vino hits the spot, too.

Some history? It opened in 2021 as wine bar, shop and deli, founded by four north London friends – Danny, Holly, Edwin & Paul – with “decades of hospitality experience” between them (including Noble Rot, The Marksman & 40FT Brewery). It was soon holding sell-out pop-ups and supper clubs, putting it firmly on London’s ever-sprawling foodie map.

With the departure of talented chef Jack Newton, their new head chef Aidan Richardson (ex-BRAT, London & Cafe de Parel, Amsterdam) has just started his curation of the restaurant’s food menu – and it looks like a corker.

Dishes on his launch menu include mussels escabeche & confit fennel; pollock carpaccio and fermented chilli dressing; grilled red mullet, carrot and chilli-garlic rouille; and lamb rump, radish, white wine & watercress sauce. Don your shades and get down the York Way Riviera. @halfcutmarket

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Image: @secretartistnw5
Image: @secretartistnw5

The China arrives on Kentish Town Road

Finally, this newbie at 243 Kentish Town Road “looks like a takeaway but it also has tables inside and in a little garden,” says Kentish Town’s fabulously mysterious Secret Artist, who sketched the above image. “And within the long menu there are some serious and delicious gems,” she added (follow her on @secretartistnw5).

The former Fortune Express, its new name marks a broader, more comprehensive menu and contains everything from bao bun wraps and steamed sea bass to hot and spicy crab and, of course, duck pancakes. We’ll let you know our verdict next time.

Just a little note (I’d love you to read this)
Kentishtowner turns 15 soon – which (sorry to brag) isn’t too shabby for an independent food & culture site run on almost zero resources. And, as usual, a billion thanks to those who donate. But to put it into perspective, that’s just under 5% of readers in the last year. If you’re sitting on the fence a bit, maybe just ping over a couple of quid? After all, that’s cheaper than a coffee almost anywhere these days. Support Kentishtowner here

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