Last Updated on October 14, 2024
Tacos Go North at Ta-Ko!
As a West Londoner, I don’t often make my way to Stoke Newington, but word is spreading fast about some fantastic culinary spots in this trendy North London neighbourhood. So, when I got an invite to Ta-Ko on Stoke Newington High Street, I jumped at the chance.
Ta-Ko was founded by friends Mike Etessam-Rogers, Niall Downey, and Stuart Binks (the team behind Stoke Newington’s cocktail hotspot, Victory Mansion) and led by head chef Jesse Cecchetto. The restaurant offers a relaxed, casual dining experience inspired by Mexican taquerias and street food, fused with bold flavours from their favourite Asian cuisines.
The decor has a cool retro-industrial vibe, featuring wood floors, vintage mirrors, minimalist tables, and metal-framed chairs, with a bar at the rear and hanging lamps giving off an ambient red glow. The night of our visit it was gently buzzing with a young hip north London crowd.
The inspired cocktail menu oozed appeal, featuring creative twists on classics like Negronis, Margaritas, Whiskey Sours, and Old Fashioneds. But with the taco spirit in full swing, I was in the mood for a Margarita – and I can’t recommend the Apricot and Smoke enough. It’s a delicious blend of Encantado Mezcal, apricot brandy, Campari, and fresh lemon, with smoky sweetness perfectly balanced by the bitterness of the Campari. Let’s just say, I went back for more! My companion was driving and took the sensible route, but still enjoyed an intriguing choice – the Spicy Soda, made with pickled jalapeño cordial, fresh lime, soda, and mint. It is unusual in the best way, with the jalapeño flavour shining through without too much heat. They also offer a selection of well-curated beers, wines and soft drinks.
On the side, we enjoyed a bowl of crisp homemade tortilla chips, paired with two flavourful dips: a herby kaffir lime, ginger, and tomato salsa, and a creamy, umami-rich white bean, miso, and sesame dip.
We kicked things off with shared starters: a fresh seabass ceviche tostada topped with wasabi mayo, fennel, pickled watermelon, and togarashi. It was fabulous, though it could’ve used a bit more kick. Next up were crispy nuggets of sushi rice, paired with turmeric-pickled daikon, mirin, soy-glazed shiitake mushrooms, and the savoury, tangy punch of pickled vegetables on top – a perfect balance of textures and flavours.
The staff are super friendly and approachable, explaining that the tacos aren’t meant to be shared (and trust me, you won’t want to!). They recommend two to three per person for a satisfying meal. We feasted on a selection of superb soft tacos… the veggie options were outstanding. Sweet fermented yellow bean taco, featuring leeks, Manchego, soft sweet potato, and mustard relish… a real comfort dish, and chunks of crispy-coated cauliflower served on a base of black bean and tamarind ragu, topped with creamy avocado, was rich and hearty.
Fish lovers will be delighted too, with tacos like the blackened spiced river trout, beautifully paired with smoky aubergine nahm prik and lime labneh. The torched seabass taco, with mandarin sambal, pickles, crispy onion, and umami ketchup, offered a satisfying crunch. The sambal perfectly balanced the richness of the onion and pickles – delicious!
For meat-eaters, the tender, juicy slow-cooked beef short rib glazed with palm sugar was a standout, complemented by crunchy pickled kohlrabi and a drizzle of blackberry sriracha. The Nahm Jim chicken was equally good -tangy, sharp flavours alongside pickled carrot and daikon, crispy onions, and a rich kampot mayo.
On the side, Asian slaw and ‘MSG’ Nori-fried potatoes, served with Kampot pepper mayo and a sprinkle of salt and vinegar powder – indulgent and seriously sensational! Had our eyes not been bigger than our stomachs, we would have polished them off. Other clever additions include the side sauces – one of the most popular, we were told, is the blackberry sriracha, which delivers a dark, powerful heat. We also tried the sesame chilli crisp oil, infused with crunchy shards of chilli… packed with tanginess, but not quite as spicy.
Finally, just because, we treated ourselves to a coconut mochi cake – a soft, chewy treat infused with kaffir lime leaf.
Ta-Ko is a must-visit for anyone interested in North London’s vibrant culinary scene. The impressive work in the kitchen shines through in every dish, meticulously assembled with care and showcasing an interesting approach to flavour combinations that beautifully blend the influences of Mexican taquerias with vibrant Asian character.
And if you’re in the party mood…downstairs, you’ll find their newly launched ‘Chef’s Table’ which also embraces the urban décor, catering for private parties and events. Seating up to 16 guests, it’s situated right by the open-plan kitchen, offering a great view of the chefs in action.
It’s the perfect spot for birthdays or fun get-togethers with friends – especially with Christmas just around the corner. TA-KO’s package includes cocktails on arrival and a feast of their favourite dishes. Guests can also plug into the speakers and audio system to entertain themselves and the TA-KO kitchen team with their favourite tunes. The group dining menu features a welcome cocktail, a selection of irresistible appetizers, TA-KOs, and desserts – £49 per person.
TA-KO
18 Stoke Newington High Street
London
N16 7PL
