As we officially step into autumn, that’s a wrap on September – and London Fashion Week. From among the beautiful and the controversial, the chic and the disruptive, there’s one brand that stuck in everyone’s mind. Helen Anthony.
We all understand the concept of a runway – stone-faced models strut their stuff, showcasing what the designers hope will set the hottest trends for the season to come – but experiencing it first hand is another thing entirely. The glitz, the glamour, the flashing lights – sprinkled with logistical panic and palpable anticipation. With the world watching, the stakes couldn’t be higher – make an impression, or fail.
The glorious mix of styles from the guests, featuring a sea of eager influencers, definitely mirrored the plethora of looks that walked the runway.
And this Helen Anthony show certainly lived up to everything you could imagine from a London Fashion Week experience.
Despite what one might assume, Helen Anthony is, in fact, a man. Naeem Anthony named his brand in honour of his great grandmother and mentor, you guessed it – Helen – who nurtured his artistic dreams and helped hone his tailoring skills.
Naeem is an avid traveller and gets much of his influences from his exploration of world-wide styles. Anthony doesn’t have a love affair with a particular fabric or aesthetic. Bold colours, unapologetic cuts and a love of texture, his choices of palettes and materials are his language for cultural expression.
As you entered the exquisite hall at the Kimpton Fitzroy hotel, you were immediately met with juxtaposing lighting and music. The contemporary, sleekly intertwined with the old-world Victorian, made the atmosphere both lavish and raw – perfectly setting the tone for this SS25 collection.
There was velvet, there was silk, there was leather, there were feathers, there were sequins, there was fringe, there was mesh, with an array of striking colours throughout – the whole thing was an indulgent and delightful assault on the senses. The sheer amount of outfits was borderline excessive, and this show was easily one of the longest. But along with this visual wild bouquet, fine tailoring was at the heart of every look.
Anthony takes inspiration from all four seasons, which is an apt way to summarise this collection. It wasn’t just summer, or autumn, it was a 365 encapsulation in a myriad ensembles that took you from sizzling heat to winter glamour. You couldn’t pigeon-hole this body of work into a particular season if you tried.
Whether intentionally or not, there were flavours of designs from Chanel to Alexandre Vauthier to Balenciaga, with visual throwbacks to multiple fashion decades. Naeem clearly has a deep historical knowledge and appreciation of the evolution of fashion, while weaving all these influences into something entirely unique. He innovates not only from year to year, but within each collection as well. If you’re after a brand that will surprise you and constantly bring waves of the unexpected, then look no further than Helen Anthony.
But the alluring variety of garments wasn’t the only thing that singled out this designer as a fearless contender for being a leader in the future of fashion. White the catwalks of old, or those still playing it safe, are comprised of your typical 5’10” size zero adolescents, Helen Anthony embraces an inspirational variety of ages, ethnicities and body types, stunningly showcasing curves, athleticism, youth and maturity. Arguably one of the most striking models on the runway was a lady in her 60s, while the youngest was none other than Naeem’s little daughter – proving that age has no bearing on style or charisma.
Not only that, but this collection had a healthy dose of androgyny, but in a refreshingly playful manner. Along with the arresting over-size looks, Anthony is a lot more daring when it comes to pushing the boundaries of gender fluidity. A particular highlight were the stunning floor-length sculpted suits and coats, that both cut a sleek silhouette and flared dramatically – and can be worn by anyone feeling audacious and fabulous. The vibe was almost… Don Draper meets fierce Queen.
Yet none of this felt forced or gratuitous in any way. All too often, companies treat DEI initiatives as a placating box-ticking exercise, but on this runway, the diversity of the models fused so seamlessly with the brand’s range of styles that it came off entirely natural.
The overall takeaway was that this brand both looks back to authentic quality and timeless craftsmanship, while constantly pushing forward with creative expression and inclusion.
To top off the dazzling show, Helen Anthony celebrated the launch of its new flagship store in Mayfair. Before the store gets zhuzhed up for the general public, the brand launch was set on the backdrop of stripped down concrete and bare walls – and the clothes felt just as at home there as they did in the grand finery of the Kimpton – all the more highlighting the styles’ versatility. With so many celebrities paving the way for more and more rule-breaking when it comes to fashion, Naeem’s brand would certainly speak to the likes of Emma Corrin, Billie Eilish or Harry Styles – disruptors in their own right, defiant, bending the norms for gender identity, body type and self-expression.
You could catch glimpses of Naeem before the show, gracefully weaving through the throng with last minute preparations. The launch was a far more relaxed affair and Mr Anthony took the time to welcome and chat with his guests. For someone who’s achieved such extraordinary success, it was a pleasure to find the man behind the vision to be so gracious and modest. The brand itself is only 3 years old and featured in Milan Fashion week, a show in London in February of this year and an established presence in Saville Row. Anthony’s work has been recognised by the top tier publications of the fashion world and this year’s collection has made one thing clear – Helen Anthony is not only here to stay, but to lead.
Check out some more highlights of the collection below:
