Planning a visit to Germany’s second-largest city? This two day Hamburg itinerary takes in the essential sights to see, alongside recommendations of where to eat, stay and play.
Back in 2017, Hamburg was my first experience of Germany; and years later, I returned for a second visit.
Smaller and less intimidating than the metropolitan sprawl of Berlin, Hamburg is a port city on the River Elbe, with an abundance of green space and canals. Districts and neighbourhoods here have their own distinct identities – from the brick warehouses of Speicherstadt to the grungy, street-art splattered Sternschanze. Hamburg also has a very liberal and left-wing culture, most noticeable within the St.Pauli and Altona areas.
I’d absolutely recommend visiting Hamburg, and this itinerary will help you plan your perfect weekend!
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How many days do you need in Hamburg?
Two days in Hamburg is plenty of time to explore the city and tick off the major sights. The central districts are relatively compact, and it’s easy to get around either on foot or by public transport.
If you’re spending longer than a weekend here, good transport links make it easy to take day trips from Hamburg to other German towns and cities.
BUDGET TRAVEL TIP: If you’re planning on visiting multiple attractions and want to save some money, find out if the Hamburg Pass is worth buying!
Two Day Hamburg Itinerary – Day 1: City Centre and Speicherstadt
This two day Hamburg itinerary covers most of the main districts in the inner city, and for your first day, I’d recommend starting mainly in the City Centre and HafenCity areas – with an evening in one of Germany’s most notorious nightlife districts.
Hamburg Rathaus (Town Hall)
Opened in 1897, Hamburg’s Rathaus is the seat of local government of the city – one of Germany’s 16 state parliaments. The neo-Renaissance building has over 600 rooms, including the opulent Great Hall. In the centre, a courtyard houses an elaborate fountain.
The lobby and courtyard are free to access to the public, but if you want to check out more of this spectacular building, you can book a guided tour of the Rathaus.
Domplatz
Domplatz is a green park in the middle of Hamburg City Centre, and was the site of St Mary’s Cathedral, which was demolished in the early 1800s. There are now white markers where the pillars would have been.
Going back even further in time, Domplatz was also the site of a fortified church, which Vikings attached and Christians rebuilt on multiple occasions in the 800s. Sections of the fort’s rubble can actually still be seen in nearby bakery Dat Backhaus. The perfect place to enjoy a coffee and cake amongst pieces of ancient history!
Chilehaus
An office building worth strolling past for a look at its unique design. Built in the 1920s as part of the Brick Expressionism architectural movement, with it’s angular walls and sharp pointed roof, reminiscent of a ship’s bow.
St. Nikolai Memorial
The St. Nikolai Church is perhaps one of Hamburg’s most notable buildings. At the time it was built in 1874, it was the tallest building in the world – and is still the second tallest building in Hamburg today.
The 14th century brick church that initially stood on the site was one of the first buildings to be destroyed in the Great Fire of Hamburg in 1842. Within two years, the church had been fully rebuilt in a neo-Gothic style.
During the Second World War, the church was mostly destroyed, but the crypt and the tower survived the bombings. It now stands as a landmark and memorial, and the renoavated crypt is home to a WWII museum. You can also take the elevator to a 75m platform in the tower, offering panoramic Hamburg views.
Opening Times: 10am-6pm
Admission Fee: €6
St. Michael’s Church
One of the best places to get views stretching out over the whole city. The building itself is Hamburg’s largest church, completed in 1912 (after two earlier churches on the site had both been destroyed). The striking baroque architecture with a 132m clock tower and crypt.
Opening Times: 10am-5.30pm (Nov-Mar); 9am-6.30pm (Oct & Apr), 9am-7.30pm (May-Sep)
Admission Fee: Church only – €2 donation; Tower – €8; Crypt & exhibitions – €6; Combination ticket – €10
Lunch in Hamburg City Centre
During our weekend in Hamburg, we had some delicious brunches and lunches, and Hamburg City Centre has plenty of contemporary, lively cafes and restaurants to choose from.
Cafe Paris
For one of the best Croque Monsieurs outside of France, Hamburg’s street-side Cafe Paris is an upmarket French-style bistro with more affordable brunch prices than you’d expect. On weekends, the breakfast menu is served until 3.30pm, offering breakfast plates, pastries, and croque sandwiches. It’s also a great spot for vegans, serving a plant-based Croque Mozzarella, which I heartily recommend!
Bistro & Café Ivy
We ate at Bistro & Café Ivy not long after we’d arrived in Hamburg, and after a long morning, their hearty brunch dishes were exactly what we needed. With a fully vegetarian breakfast and lunch menu including plenty of vegan options, I was spoilt for choice – but we both ended up settling on the shakshuka. Full of rich flavour and packed with nourishing veg, it set us up for the day perfectly.
After lunch, head over towards HafenCity, Hamburg’s lively urban riverside quarter. It incorporates the warehouse district of Speicherstadt, where neo-Gothic brick warehouses line the canals.
St Catherine’s Church
Before you head over the bridges to Speicherstadt, swing by St. Catherine’s Church, built in the Gothic style with a 13th century spire. At the top of the spire, you’ll see a gold ring that, according to legend, was acquired by Klaus Störtebeker, Hamburg’s most famous pirate.
The legend tells that when Störtebeker was captured, offered a chain of gold long enough to enclose the whole of Hamburg in exchange for his life and freedom. The mayor declined his request, so instead he made another offer – once he’d been executed, his body would stand up and walk. For every one of his crew his headless corpse walked past, they wouldn’t be executed. After he was beheaded, his body rose and walked 11 before the executioner tripped him. The 11 men were executed regardless, and the gold found in his ship was used to create the tip of the church.
Aside from legend, St. Catherine’s is a beautiful Hamburg church with striking stained glass windows and an impressive organ.
Opening Times: 10am-5pm
Admission Fee: Free
Miniatur Wunderland
With over 1100 trains travelling across over 16,000m of track, Miniatur Wunderland holds the Guinness World Record for the world’s largest model railway. The railway is divided into nine sections across the Alps, Europe and the USA, and features 4300 minature buildings, over 10,000 vehicles and almost 300,000 figurines.
Founded in 2000, it’s now one of Germany’s most visited tourist attractions. If you’re visiting, definitely plan a couple of hours to explore the expansive minature world!
TRAVEL TIP: Book your Miniatur Wonderland tickets in advance, as wait times for on the door tickets are often hours long.
Opening Times: Vary by season – always open 9.30-6pm, but during holidays and weekends, they open later.
Admission Fee: €20
Elbphilharmonie (Hamburg State Opera House)
Since 2017, the unmissable Elbphilharmonie building has been the home of Hamburg State Opera. Inside, there are three concert venues, restaurants, bars, a hotel and luxury apartments. Even if you’re not taking in a performance, it’s worth checking out.
The striking design of the former warehouse building features a brick base with undulating glass ‘waves’. As the light changes, the glass takes on different colours, and reflects the water below and surrounding buildings. If you’re interested in the history and stories behind the building and the Hamburg State Opera, you can take a guided Elbphilharmonie tour.
Evening: Reeperbahn
On both of my trips to Hamburg, I’ve visited the infamous Reeperbahn during the day and night, and can honestly say that the latter is a much better experience.
This historic 17th and 18th century ropemaker’s district is now a major nightlife and entertainment hub – and also the city’s red light district. Here, you’ll find clubs, bars and restaurants – but also sex shops, strip clubs and brothels. One street, Herbertstraße, is completely off limits to women and under 18s, at the request of the sex workers who frequent the windows.
But there’s more to Reeperbahn than just the red-light district. In music history, The Beatles played pre-fame gigs in several Reeperbahn clubs. A circular plaza dedicated to the group has a metal sculpture to commemorate the importance of the group in the area’s history.
If you want to learn more about the Reeperbahn and St. Pauli, I’d thoroughly recommend joining a guided Reeperbahn tour, to delve into the fascinating, often-seedy history of the area.
Two Day Hamburg Itinerary – Day 2: St. Pauli & Sternschanze
Hamburg is well-regarded for its strong liberal attitudes, and nowhere is this more prevalent than in the St. Pauli quarter. Incorporating both the infamous Reeperbahn and the lively, creative Sternschanze district, St Pauli is full of fascinating things to do and see – from colourful street art to the buzz of the harbour.
Hamburg Fischmarkt [Sundays only]
If you’re willing to get up early on a Sunday morning, head down to the waterfront in St.Pauli to experience a true slice of local life at the Hamburg Fischmarkt. Yep, that translates to ‘fish market’ – but there’s much more to this Sunday tradition than just spoils from the sea, and I really enjoyed spending the morning soaking up the sights, sounds…and smells.
As you walk along the harbour to the bartering shouts of stallholders, you’ll also find produce, baked goods and gifts alongside the fish stalls that give the market its namesake. In the century-old market hall, live bands play rock and jazz music, attracting the previous night’s party-goers for another beer or two before finally retiring to bed. The atmosphere is vibrant and electric, and definitely worth setting your alarm for!
Opening Hours: 5-9.30am (summer), 7-9.30am (winter)
If you don’t fancy getting up early for the Fischmarkt, start your day in St. Pauli with a walk along the harbour to take in the Elbe riverfront.
St. Pauli Piers
Further towards Hamburg City Cenre and Speicherstadt, the St. Pauli Piers are a hub of waterside activities. Boats moored here are home to restaurants, bars and even escape room games, and you can also join a Hamburg boat tour to see the city from the water.
Alter Elbtunnel
Built in 1911 to allow dock workers to cross the River Elbe more easily, the Alter Elbtunnel is a 426 metre underpass that’s free to pedestrians and cyclists. The Art-Deco style makes it a popular tourist attraction, as well as a functional way to access and explore the southern banks of the river.
Park Fiction
Hafenstraße is the street that runs alongside the river. Since 1981, squatters have occupied houses here as a protest against gentrification of the area. Local residents and artists began the Park Fiction project in 1994, creating a public green space featuring sculptures and benches.
St. Pauli Bunker
During my most recent weekend in Hamburg, the St. Pauli Bunker had just reopened earlier in the month – so we decided to haul ourselves up lots of stairs to check it out.
Built in 1942, the flak tower was used primarily for air defense during the Second World War, and also as a shelter during the bombing of Hamburg. After the war, the bunker found a new life as a creative and cultural centre. As part of recent restoration, a green pyramid was added to the top, housing a Hard Rock hotel, restaurants and event spaces. At the very top, a public garden offers a green space with panoramic views over Hamburg.
The information boards about the bunker’s history are currently only available in German, and we were a little disappointed with the limited information available. Hopefully with time, the space will grow into itself more – but at the very least, it’s a good place to get some great views of the city for free!
Be warned – there are a LOT of stairs to climb! Use of the hotel lift is available for guests with mobility requirements.
Millerntor-Stadion
The Millerntor-Stadion football ground is home of FC St. Pauli, a club renowned for its left-wing politics, social activism and culture. The team and supporters play an important role in local community, and FC St. Pauli has a global following, particularly within punk and alternative subcultures.
Check fixtures online to see if your visit lines up with an FC St. Pauli game! You can also take tour of Millerntor-Stadion with a genuine St. Pauli fan as your guide is a great way to learn more about the club. Even if you’re not a huge football fan, this is a stadium tour unlike any other, with a fascinating ethos and history.
Tour Schedule: Fri 2.30pm; Sat 10.30am & 2.30pm; Sunday 10.30am (no tours on home or away matchdays)
Admission Fee: €16.50
FC St. Pauli-Museum
Another way to get to know more about FC St. Pauli is by visiting the museum. A dynamic and immersive experience, see the story of this iconic club told through videos, images and artefacts. Founded by fans and opened in 2012, the museum chronicles some of the most eventful times in the club’s history.
Opening Times: Thu 3-10pm; Fri 3-7pm; Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 10am-3pm (usually closed on matchdays)
Admission Fee: €7
Planten un Blomen
A walk through this beautiful, sprawling green space is the perfect way to top off your afternoon in Hamburg! Planten un Blomen is a well-maintained 47 hectare city park, with colourful flowerbeds, themed gardens and tranquil ponds.
The Japanese Garden is the largest of its kind in Europe, with an authentic Japanese tea house beside a pond. A perfectly manicured rose garden is home to over 300 varieties, laid out in a classical style with charming arches and an information pavilion. In the tropical greenhouse, explore more exotic varieties of plant and flower from a variety of global climates.
Looking for something to do at night? Between May and September at 10pm, a nightly light show illuminates the lake with colour and music.
Sternschanze
Late afternoon is the perfect time to head over to Sternschanze; an alternative, counter-cultural quarter that embodies left-wing politics and creativity. Pictures, graffiti and stickers adorn pretty much every ground floor wall and door, and we discovered tons of interesting independent shops along Schanzenstraße, one of the area’s main streets.
One particular building of interest in Sternschanze is Rote Flora, a former theatre turned cultural and political centre after it became occupied by squatters in 1987. A central point for left-wing activism, political banners and graffiti adorns the front of the building.
Where to eat in Sternschanze
Sternschanze has plenty of independent restaurants to choose from, serving cuisines from all over the globe, including quick bites and more substantial lunches and dinners.
Schmitt Foxy Food
It wouldn’t be a weekend in Hamburg without a currywurst, right? We stumbled across Schmitt Foxy Food just opposite Rote Flora, a simple corner joint serving currywurst (including vegan options) and fries. Perfect as a tasty little snack on its own, or as a meal deal for a decent lunch on the go.
Good to know: Schmitt Foxy Food is cash only!
Giovanni Rocco
For a more substantial, sit-down meal, Giovanni Rocco is a buzzing Italian spot in Sternschanze. We actually grabbed a seat at their second spot just a few buildings down, tucking into delicious pizzas on a street table.
Things to do at night in Hamburg
Most of my evenings visiting Hamburg have been spent enjoying a beer or two in St. Pauli, and if you’re looking for late night entertainment, you won’t be disappointed.
Alongside the abundant nightlife, there are also plenty of other great things to do in Hamburg once the sun goes down:
Hamburg Travel Guide
Language: German, with English widely spoken well
Currency: Euro. Most places accept card payment, although you may need cash for businesses in the Sternschanze and St Pauli areas. ATMs are easy to come by.
Time Zone: GMT+2
Emergency number: 112
How to get to Hamburg
With a flight time of around an hour and a half from London, two days in Hamburg is the ideal Saturday-Sunday getaway if you can time the flights right.
Direct S-Bahn trains run between Hamburg International Airport and Berliner Tor station, taking just 20 minutes and running around every 15 minutes. From Berliner Tor, its around 25mins walk from Hamburg City Centre. You can also pick up the U3 U-Bahn line to Rathaus station, which takes 5 minutes.
Getting around Hamburg
Hamburg is mostly walkable, although between areas such as HafenCity and Sternschanze, public transport is your best bet.
The U-Bahn underground metro service is reliable and frequent, running between popular destinations. A single adult ticket costs €3.80, and its €8.80 for an all day ticket. On weekends, you can also get the 9am all-day ticket for €7.50 – valid all day on Saturdays and Sundays. For 2+ people travelling on a weekend consider the 9am all day group ticket, covering up to five travellers all day at weekends for €14.10.
Ticket machines are available at U-Bahn stations, and you can put in your destination to auto-calculate the fare if you’re not sure.
Where to stay in Hamburg
Accommodation in Hamburg can be on the more expensive side, but there are plenty of hotels, hostels and apartments available within all budgets.
Generator Hostel (€)
I always gravitate towards Generator Hostels for affordable, well-designed accommodation, and Hamburg’s outpost is ideally located by Hauptbahnhof (the main train station).
CitySurfer44 (€€)
On my more recent visit to Hamburg, we booked a private room at CitySurfer44 designhostel, and loved the unique decor and outdoor common area.
CAB20 (€) – cabin style accommodation for budget travellers.
Chez Ronny (€€) – St. Pauli hotel with arty, warm decor.
25hrs Hamburg Hafencity (€€€) – I stayed in a 25hrs hotel in Berlin and really rate the design and service in their hotels)
